The story of Geoffrey Beene
Born in Louisiana, Geoffrey Beene dropped out of medical school for fashion. He founded his New York house in 1963. Clean cuts and unexpected fabrics earned him a strong reputation in America. In 1975 he launched Grey Flannel, his first men's fragrance. The name honours grey flannel, a fabric he loved to use. André Fromentin composed it. Grey Flannel won a FiFi Award in 1976. The licence then changed hands several times before landing with Elizabeth Arden. Today it sells mostly at a low price. The formula has been adjusted over the decades, and fans of the first version miss it.
An olfactory signature
Grey Flannel rests on one strong idea: violet, taken from the leaf rather than the flower. The result is green and almost sharp, with a feel of cucumber and damp soil. Galbanum and bergamot open it. Iris and geranium follow in the heart, then oakmoss and vetiver close it out. It is a powdery, greyish masculine, very different from the sporty fougères that came after. It suggests a well-cut suit more than a gym.
Which Geoffrey Beene perfume to choose?
Grey Flannel is for men who like green scents and iris. If you wear Dior Homme or violet-based compositions, give it a try. It works at the office in spring and autumn. The current version is stiffer than the old one. Wait an hour before judging, as the base softens. Two sprays are enough. At this price it is one of the best introductions to violet leaf.