The story of Grès
Germaine Krebs first worked under the name Alix in the 1930s. In 1942 she opened her own house as Grès. Her pleated and draped dresses, cut like sculpture, made her a singular figure in Paris couture. In 1959 she called on perfumer Bernard Chant for Cabochard. The name means stubborn, and so is the scent: a dry, emphatic leather chypre. The bottle, designed by Madame Grès, is tied with a grey ribbon. Thirty years later, in 1990, Cabotine changed register entirely. Jean-Claude Delville built a green floral around ginger lily. Cabotine quickly became a popular hit at a friendly price. Coloured variations followed, Cabotine Rose among them.
An olfactory signature
Grès has two faces. Cabochard stands for post-war couture perfumery: leather, oakmoss, spice and dried flowers. It carries an austerity few modern scents dare. Cabotine looks elsewhere. Its green, almost grassy opening leads into a floral heart where ginger lily meets tuberose and ylang. It is fresh and powdery together, and easy to recognise. Cabotine Rose keeps the structure and adds a lighter fruity rose. The gap between the two flagships is huge, which is exactly what makes the house worth a look.
Which Grès perfume to choose?
If you like old chypres and leather, Cabochard is a classic worth knowing. Its formula has shifted through reformulations, like many scents of its era. Test before buying. Cabotine suits everyday wear better. It is green, floral and inexpensive. Cabotine Rose is the softest version and fits spring. These last reasonably well. Two sprays on the nape are enough for Cabotine. One will do for Cabochard.