What does Mandarin smell like?
Mandarin smells of freshly peeled fruit, with an almost candied sweetness and a touch of zesty bitterness. Green mandarin is tarter and fizzier, red mandarin sweeter and rounder. A floral facet close to neroli and a faintly spicy nuance make it warmer than other citrus notes. On skin it evaporates fairly quickly but leaves a luminous, cheerful impression that softens the opening of a perfume.
Origin and production
Mandarin (Citrus reticulata), native to China, is grown in Italy, notably Sicily and Calabria, as well as Brazil and Spain. Its oil is obtained by cold-pressing the peel. Depending on harvest time, perfumers distinguish green, yellow and red oils, each sweeter than the last. Part of its signature comes from methyl N-methylanthranilate, which gives it a floral, slightly smoky facet.
How perfumers use it
In the top notes mandarin brings a rounded freshness that softens a composition and makes its opening more inviting. It pairs with neroli, bergamot, basil, warm spices, rose and vanilla. Jo Malone Lime Basil & Mandarin makes it one of its stars, Paco Rabanne 1 Million pairs it with grapefruit and mint, and Chanel Allure uses it to brighten a floral oriental.
How to wear it
Mandarin works year-round, especially in spring and summer, for anyone who likes a gentle, never harsh freshness.
