The story of Molyneux
Edward Molyneux was born in London in 1891. After the First World War he opened his couture house at 5 rue Royale in Paris in 1919. His style was understated and refined, much loved by actresses and aristocrats. Pierre Balmain started out with him in the 1930s. Perfume came fast: Le Numéro Cinq arrived in the 1920s and Parfums Molyneux was set up in 1927. The couture house closed in 1950 because of his health, then briefly returned in the 1960s. Molyneux died in 1974. The perfumes outlived him. Quartz came out in 1977, composed by Raymond Chaillan in a bottle by Serge Mansau. In 2014 the Toulouse firm Berdoues bought the brand.
An olfactory signature
Quartz is an old-school green chypre, the divisive kind. Citrus opens on a clean green note. The floral heart stays in the background, lifted by aldehydes. The base mixes moss and woods with the bitterness that defined chypres of that era. It is upright and lean, almost mineral, which suits the name. You love it or hate it. It has been reformulated, like every chypre of its generation.
Which Molyneux perfume to choose?
Quartz is for fans of green chypres who miss the older versions of Chanel No 19 or Jacomo Silences. Wear it in spring and autumn, preferably by day. One or two sprays are enough, as it has character. Test on skin before buying, since the green opening can surprise. It still sells at a gentle price, which makes it a good way to learn the chypre family. For comparison, try Jacomo Silences, which is softer and more floral. Clinique Aromatics Elixir is far stronger.