Our take
What does Alexandria II smell like?
From Xerjoff, the Italian luxury house, Alexandria II belongs to the lineage of sumptuous woody orientals, offered in parfum concentration. The opening is surprisingly bright, with rosewood, lavender and cinnamon-dusted apple forming an aromatic, slightly fruity freshness close to an apple turnover. The heart pairs rose, cedar and lily of the valley, a bouquet that lights up the wood without weighing it down. The base reveals the composition's full richness: oud, sandalwood, amber, vanilla and musk in a round, creamy harmony, free of the animal harshness of some ouds. It conjures waxed panelling, antique bindings and golden light filtering into a grand room.
When to wear it
Evenings and grand occasions in cold weather; it suits lovers of refined ouds and opulent woods, whatever their gender.
The story of Alexandria II
Xerjoff was founded in Turin by Sergio Momo, with the idea of bringing Italian luxury codes to perfume. That meant heavy glass, sculpted caps and serious packaging. Alexandria II came out in 2012, just as oud was becoming a rite of passage for Western niche houses. Tom Ford had popularised the material in 2007 with Oud Wood, and European brands were busy turning out softened ouds for a clientele meeting it for the first time. The name points to Alexandria, the great Egyptian port. The composition, though, has no interest in Middle Eastern authenticity. It wraps its oud in cinnamon apple, lavender and creamy vanilla, which makes it easy to read for a European nose. No perfumer has been reliably credited, so we won't guess at one. Sold in parfum concentration and in the house's weighty bottle, it now ranks among the most searched-for Xerjoff scents. It is also routinely compared with the richest Parfums de Marly releases, which share its idea of opulence.
Our detailed review
Freshness is the surprise at first: lavender, rosewood and warm stewed apple with cinnamon. It lasts a good hour, long for a top accord. Rose and cedar then take over, with a lily of the valley we read mostly as brightness, almost soapy. The oud only really shows after three hours. It is smoothed out, nothing animalic or medicinal, cushioned by sandalwood and vanilla. The final amber-and-cream stage can survive until the next morning on fabric. What works is the continuity. Each phase slides into the next without a seam. What doesn't: this oud is ornamental. Fans of raw, smoky or funky ouds will be bored, and the cinnamon apple sits a little too close to a December scented candle. It suits anyone wanting a rich, flattering scent for big nights, whatever their gender. On a cold evening that apple-and-vanilla trail is genuinely comforting. People who find vanilla overbearing should steer clear.
Alexandria II vs its rivals
Parfums de Marly Layton Exclusif is its closest twin. Almost note for note it has the apple and lavender, the rose and cinnamon, then oud and vanilla over sandalwood. The gap comes from Layton Exclusif's coffee and guaiac, which make it darker and more gourmand. Alexandria II keeps a floral brightness through lily of the valley and cedar. For a winter night, take the Marly. For a black-tie occasion, the Xerjoff. Tom Ford Oud Wood shares rosewood, sandalwood, amber and musk but carries no fruit and no vanilla. It is drier, peppery and far quieter, the oud you can wear to work. Pegasus Exclusif swaps apple for almond and heliotrope and comes out powdery and pastry-like. Reach for it if Alexandria II feels too woody. Choose Oud Wood if it feels too sweet.
Longevity, projection and use
At parfum strength and high intensity, Alexandria II easily lasts eight to twelve hours on skin, and the base is still on a coat collar the next day. Projection is big for the first three hours, then it tightens into an amber aura. Two sprays are enough, three outdoors in winter. Beyond that, the vanilla fills a room. Aim for the base of the neck and the chest, under clothing, rather than wrists you'd be smelling all day. It is a cold-weather evening scent for dinners, winter weddings or any night you want to be remembered. Keep it away from the office and from hot days.
It belongs to the Oriental / Amber, Woody family. Alexandria II is one of 3 creations by Xerjoff in our encyclopedia.
