What does Cistus smell like?
On a hot day in Andalusia, cistus bushes give off a resinous smell that almost sticks to your skin. Cistus oil captures that mood. It is ambery and slightly honeyed, with a facet of leather and dry undergrowth. It is airier and more herbal than labdanum, which leans animalic. On skin cistus warms slowly and lasts a long time. It gives perfume that golden-skin feel we associate with amber.
Origin and production
Gum rockrose (Cistus ladanifer) grows in the scrubland of Spain and Portugal. In hot weather its leaves and young twigs secrete a sticky gum. Two materials come from it. Cistus oil is steam-distilled from the leafy twigs. Labdanum comes from the gum, collected by boiling the twigs, then processed into a resinoid or absolute. The white flowers last a single day, and perfumers don't use them.
How perfumers use it
Together with vanilla and benzoin, cistus forms the classic base of an amber accord. It also gets along with rose, incense, patchouli and leather. Le Labo Rose 31, composed by Daphné Bugey in 2006, uses it to give a dry backbone to a cumin-spiced rose. Maison Margiela Replica Under the Lemon Trees hides it in the base of a citrus scent. Maison Crivelli Oud Maracujá and Amouage Guidance both pair it with Akigalawood.
How to wear it
Cistus is for autumn and winter, ideally in the evening. On a wool scarf, the amber of Rose 31 can last until the next day.