The story of Boucheron
Frédéric Boucheron opened his first shop in 1858 in the Galerie de Valois at the Palais-Royal. In 1893 he made a move nobody had tried. He left the Palais-Royal for Place Vendôme and became the first jeweller on the square, at number 26, where the house remains. Perfume took much longer. In 1988 Alain Boucheron, the founder's great-grandson, set up Parfums Boucheron. The first bottle copied a cabochon ring and the scent was composed by Francis Deléamont and Jean-Pierre Béthouart. Jaïpur followed in 1994 in a bracelet-shaped bottle, with a men's version later in the decade. Boucheron now belongs to Kering. Its fragrances were long made under licence, first by L'Oréal and then by Interparfums from 2010, before Kering brought them back in house.
An olfactory signature
The Boucheron style starts with the bottle. Ring, bracelet, raised band: you can spot the house on a shelf before you smell anything. The women's scents lean towards floral amber, with white flowers on a warm base. Serpent Bohème, by Anne Flipo, is a lighter take. Mandarin and blackcurrant open onto Turkish rose and sambac jasmine, then a base of labdanum and patchouli. Jaïpur Homme goes the other way. Cardamom and lime lead into cinnamon and carnation, then a benzoin and tonka base.
Which Boucheron perfume to choose?
If you are new to the house, Quatre and Quatre pour Homme are the easiest to wear every day. The original 1988 Boucheron is for fans of big eighties florals. Serpent Bohème is the most modern of the set and fresh enough for the office. Jaïpur Homme is spicy and sweet, so keep it for autumn evenings. One or two sprays will do, as it fills a room fast. Place Vendôme and Jaïpur Bracelet round out the range with softer florals. If you like Jaïpur Homme, try it next to Viktor & Rolf Spicebomb, which is smokier and more recent.