What does Immortelle smell like?
Rub a dried immortelle stem by a Corsican path in July. The smell first recalls curry and fenugreek. Then come cut hay, honey and a caramelised note close to maple syrup. Nothing floral in the usual sense. It is warm, spicy and slightly salty, and it divides people: some find it comforting, others too culinary. On skin it lasts a long time and blends readily with tobacco and leather.
Origin and production
Immortelle (Helichrysum italicum) grows on dry, rocky Mediterranean ground. Corsica and the Balkans, notably Bosnia and Croatia, are the main producers. The name comes from its flowers, which keep their shape and colour once dried. The flowering tops are steam-distilled for the essential oil. A darker, more honeyed absolute is obtained by solvent extraction.
How perfumers use it
Immortelle pairs with tobacco, honey, leather and toasted notes. Serge Lutens set it at the top of Chergui (2001) with hay, before a heart of honey and tobacco. He came back to it in the heart of Jeux de Peau (2011), where it meets milk, licorice and toasted notes like bread crust. Guerlain Cuir Beluga (2005) pairs it with leather over heliotrope and vanilla. Nina Ricci Luna (2016) uses it more quietly, next to caramel and pear.
How to wear it
Immortelle is an autumn and winter note, best late in the day. Chergui is strong, so one spray on a sweater is enough. Cuir Beluga is softer and wears close.