What does Leather smell like?
Depending on its construction, leather can smell of a worn saddle, birch tar and smoke, or of a supple, powdery, almost floral glove. There is often a bitterness, a faintly dirty animalic facet and the warmth of skin. On the body the accord grows rounder over time, softening against musks and amber, and it lasts for hours. It is a base note that stamps its character on the whole fragrance.
Origin and production
Leather perfumery began with the glovers-perfumers of Grasse, who scented hides to mask the smell of tanning. In the early twentieth century the Cuir de Russie accord took inspiration from hides tanned with birch tar. Today perfumers build it from rectified birch tar, synthetic castoreum, styrax and smoky quinolines, along with more recent molecules that bring saffron and suede nuances.
How perfumers use it
Leather sits in the base or heart, adding character and staying power. It works with iris, violet, saffron, tobacco, vanilla, woods and patchouli. Caron Tabac Blond, in 1919, turned it into a daring feminine perfume; Dior Fahrenheit sets it in the base beneath violet and woods; Tom Ford Ombre Leather places it at the heart of a dark, contemporary composition.
How to wear it
Leather is best in autumn and winter and for evenings, for anyone who enjoys bold, sensual fragrances with character.
