Our take
What does Baptême du Feu smell like?
Serge Lutens released Baptême du Feu in July 2016. Christopher Sheldrake composed it with Lutens, as he has done for nearly the whole house. The idea comes from the fun fairs of Lutens' childhood, with sweets on one side and the shooting gallery on the other. The house names a single note, gingerbread. Retailers add mandarin and ginger at the top. The first impression is a bright citrus with a sting. Cinnamon arrives fast. Osmanthus brings a dried apricot nuance. Castoreum and dry woods form the base and give it the feel of warm leather, though there's no real smoke. The famous gunpowder is more an impression than a note. Next to Chergui from the same house, Baptême du Feu is drier and less honeyed. It's lighter too and wears closer to the skin.
When to wear it
Good for an autumn Sunday or a cold evening in town. Three sprays on a wool sweater keep the spice going for hours.
It belongs to the Oriental / Amber, Spicy family. Baptême du Feu is one of 31 creations by Serge Lutens in our encyclopedia.
