Our take
What does Gem smell like?
Van Cleef & Arpels launched Gem in 1987, back when every jeweller wanted an evening perfume of its own. The bottle nods to a cut stone. What's inside looks to the great chypres instead. Peach and plum open it up, held in place by dry cypress and a pinch of cardamom. Coriander and rosewood make the start spicy, close to peppery. Tuberose and rose then take over the heart. Jasmine and ylang-ylang follow, and clove gives the bouquet an edge. Iris adds a light dusting of powder. The base belongs to another era: patchouli and vetiver over oakmoss, plus civet that leaves a warm trace of skin. Think of Paloma Picasso from three years earlier, only fruitier and with less leather. Gem is no longer made. Most bottles you'll find are vintage, so check the condition before you buy.
When to wear it
Wear it on winter evenings with dark clothes and a wool coat. One spray is plenty because the civet and moss carry far.
It belongs to the Chypre, Fruity family. Gem is one of 20 creations by Van Cleef & Arpels in our encyclopedia.
