Our take
What does First smell like?
First lives up to its name. In 1976 it was the first perfume from Van Cleef & Arpels, often described as the first ever launched by a jeweler. Jean-Claude Ellena composed it long before his Hermès years. Jacques Llorente's bottle borrows the shape of one of the house's pendants. The opening is fizzy with aldehydes. Bergamot, mandarin and a green, fruity black currant join them. Peach and raspberry soften the start. Ellena built his jasmine on Hedione, giving the heart a transparency older aldehydic florals did not have. Rose, narcissus and ylang-ylang fill out a dense but bright bouquet, pricked with clove. The base is more traditional: sandalwood, vetiver, amber and musk. Oakmoss and an animal hint of civet sit underneath. Next to Chanel No. 5, First feels fruitier and less soapy. Today it reads a little ladylike. That is exactly its charm.
When to wear it
A scent for tailored suits and dressy evenings, best in spring, autumn and winter. One spray at the base of the neck is enough, since the aldehydes project.
It belongs to the Floral, Powdery family. First is one of 20 creations by Van Cleef & Arpels in our encyclopedia.
