Our take
What does Magie Noire smell like?
Lancôme launched Magie Noire in 1978. It is most often credited to Gérard Goupy, sometimes alongside other names. This was a year after Opium, in the era of big night perfumes. The opening is green and a little sour. Galbanum meets blackcurrant bud and raspberry. Bergamot and hyacinth add a freshness that feels almost damp. The heart thickens fast. Rose, jasmine and tuberose make a heady bouquet, darkened by narcissus and an animal honey. Iris adds a dusting of powder. The base earns the name. Oakmoss, patchouli and vetiver take over, warmed by sandalwood and amber. A touch of civet leaves a skin-like trace. Vintage bottles are dirtier and mossier than today's version, which reformulation has thinned out. Next to Yves Saint Laurent's Opium, spicier and more resinous, Magie Noire stays greener and murkier.
When to wear it
A formal winter evening scent that needs a light hand. A single spray on the neck lasts the whole night.
It belongs to the Floral, Chypre family. Magie Noire is one of 25 creations by Lancôme in our encyclopedia.