Thierry Wasser: Perfumes, Career and Guerlain Creations

Thierry Wasser perfumes: Guerlain's in-house nose

Thierry Wasser has been Guerlain's in-house perfumer since 2008. The three creations in our catalogue are all co-written with Delphine Jelk and share one aim: a modernised Guerlain softness. La Petite Robe Noire comes first for its playful cherry. Mon Guerlain, all lavender and creamy vanilla, is second. L'Homme Idéal, almond and leather, closes the list on the masculine side.

3perfumes reviewed

Career: the first outsider at Guerlain

Swiss-born Thierry Wasser built his career in the big fragrance houses before joining Guerlain in 2008. There he succeeded Jean-Paul Guerlain and became the house's first in-house perfumer from outside the family. It is a heavy job. He inherited Shalimar and L'Heure Bleue, and with them a very coded style built on vanilla, tonka and iris. His role mixes creation and guardianship, since he also looks after raw materials and keeps the classics faithful. On recent launches he often works in tandem with Delphine Jelk, who co-signed all three perfumes on this page. Our reading: Wasser has not tried to break with the house. He has made the Guerlain signature lighter and more immediate, for people who reach the brand through these launches rather than through Shalimar.

Style: a lighter guerlinade

The three scents here share the same warm foundation. Tonka shows up in La Petite Robe Noire and L'Homme Idéal. Vanilla appears in La Petite Robe Noire and Mon Guerlain, with coumarin in Mon Guerlain too. That is the Guerlain inheritance, nothing surprising. What changes is the opening. Wasser adds a playful top that reads instantly. Think cherry and almond in La Petite Robe Noire, or lavender in Mon Guerlain. Bitter almond opens L'Homme Idéal, and almond is clearly his favourite material on this page. Intensities stay moderate, all rated 3 out of 5. These are perfumes made for daily wear, not for filling a room. The flip side is that next to the house's great classics they can feel tame. You gain ease and lose some mystery.

3 perfumes, in order

Guerlain · 2009 · Gourmand Oriental

La Petite Robe Noire

Our first pick, because it is the most personal Wasser in the selection. Cherry and almond open, liquorice and smoky tea follow, then tonka and anise close the scent. The result is gourmand without being cloying. It suits fans of nuanced gourmands, for dates or casual nights out. The prominent cherry divides people. Playful where Mon Guerlain is gentle, it is also less of a crowd-pleaser.

Guerlain · 2017 · Oriental

Mon Guerlain

Provençal lavender and creamy vanilla: Mon Guerlain revisits an old house dialogue with a very current softness. Jasmine, iris and rose sit in the heart, with sandalwood and coumarin below. It works at the office or in the evening, in mild or cool weather. A bit tame next to the Guerlain classics. Less gourmand than La Petite Robe Noire, it is the most versatile of the three.

Lavender Bergamot Jasmine Iris Similar perfumes

Guerlain · 2014 · Oriental Woody

L'Homme Idéal

On the masculine side, Wasser bets on bitter almond. Bergamot and rosemary open it before it slides toward tonka and leather. The base is vetiver, sandalwood and cedar. It suits men who like soft woods, at the office or on mild evenings. Too sweet for fans of dry woody scents. It shares La Petite Robe Noire's almond, which looks like his favourite material.

Almond Bergamot Rosemary Tonka Bean

Frequently asked questions

Who is Thierry Wasser?

He has been Guerlain's in-house perfumer since 2008. Swiss by birth, he succeeded Jean-Paul Guerlain and is the first person outside the family to hold the role. He creates the house's new launches and also watches over classics such as Shalimar.

Which Guerlain perfumes did Thierry Wasser create?

Our catalogue lists three, all co-written with Delphine Jelk: La Petite Robe Noire, Mon Guerlain and L'Homme Idéal. He has signed many other Guerlain scents since 2008 that our selection does not cover yet.

Mon Guerlain or La Petite Robe Noire: which one?

Pick Mon Guerlain for an everyday scent between lavender and vanilla that works at the office. Go for La Petite Robe Noire if you like a more playful gourmand and cherry does not bother you. Both rate 3 out of 5 for intensity and hold up well in cool weather.