What does Mace smell like?
Mace smells like nutmeg with less weight. The woody warmth of the spice is there, plus a peppery facet and a hint of citrus. It is less sweet and airier. Open a jar of dried mace and you'll also catch a light resinous side. In perfume it adds an elegant spice that lifts lavender or rose without crushing them.
Origin and production
The nutmeg tree (Myristica fragrans) comes from the Banda Islands in Indonesia's Moluccas. Its fruit holds a seed, nutmeg, wrapped in a bright red lacy aril: mace. It is removed by hand and dried, which turns it orange. Indonesia and Grenada in the Caribbean are the main producers. The essential oil is steam-distilled.
How perfumers use it
Mace spices with a light hand. It pairs with lavender, leather, rose and woods. Givenchy Xeryus (1986) puts it at the top of a fougère with tarragon and clary sage. Guerlain Derby (1985) uses it in the heart, between rose and pimento, in a leathery chypre. Caron Parfum Sacré (1990) pairs it with pepper and cardamom before a myrrh and civet base.
How to wear it
Mace suits autumn and winter. Derby and Parfum Sacré are dense: one spray on the neck, one on the wrist, then leave them to it.