Our take
What does Derby smell like?
Jean-Paul Guerlain created Derby in 1985, when men's fragrances were judged by their density. It is an old-school leather chypre. The opening is bitter and cool: artemisia, bergamot and lemon, with peppermint that stings the nose. Spices come next. Mace, pimento and pepper heat up a heart of jasmine and rose, flowers kept at arm's length as if in a smoking room. The base is what made its name. Damp oakmoss, leather, patchouli and vetiver build a dark forest floor that sandalwood softens. The original has left the shelves. Guerlain later revived it in its boutique collection, and Luca Turin noted a brighter citrus top on the new version. Compared with Habit Rouge, which is sweeter and more ambery, Derby stays dry and earthy and far more stern. It is the kind of scent that rewards patience.
When to wear it
Keep it for cold days and dressed-up evenings. One or two sprays on a shirt will do, since the moss and leather base carries far.
It belongs to the Chypre family. Derby is one of 89 creations by Guerlain in our encyclopedia.
