Flower for women, leaf for men
Violet wears a different face depending on the aisle. In men's scents it is almost always the leaf: green and slightly metallic, it freshens Green Irish Tweed or Stronger With You. In the women's perfumes on this page the flower dominates, with its powdery candy feel. It rarely takes the lead role. It usually sits in the heart and acts as a binder. It powders the rose in Paris and softens the coffee in The Only One. In Burberry Her it rounds off the red berries. Only Daisy uses both leaf and flower, which gives it a meadow freshness no other scent here has. If you want a violet you can clearly smell, pick one where it faces little competition. The Only One and Flower by Kenzo are the most legible.
Retro, fruity or gourmand
Feminine violet falls into three groups on this list. The first is powdery and vintage. Vol de Nuit (1933) pairs it with iris and galbanum. L'Air du Temps (1948) sets it with rose and jasmine, and Paris (1983) with a lush rose. These smell like a grandmother's powder compact, in the best sense. The second group is fruity and modern. Daisy, Her and Palatine place violet over berries, strawberry or pear. It is the easiest group for daytime and the lightest. The third is gourmand or dark. The Only One blends violet with coffee, while Oud Satin Mood wraps it in oud, rose and vanilla. For the office, choose from the second group, which won't bother anyone at the next desk. For a winter dinner, go with the third.
Wearing violet without losing track of it
Violet has one awkward trait. The ionones behind its scent tire the nose quickly. After a few minutes you stop smelling your own perfume, while people around you still notice it. So resist the urge to reapply. Two sprays are enough for light violets like Daisy or L'Air du Temps, and one is plenty for Paris or Oud Satin Mood, which are stronger. Spray skin rather than clothes, since violet needs warmth to melt into the musky base. Spring suits it best. That is when the flower actually blooms and its powdery side feels weightless. The Only One and Oud Satin Mood are the exceptions and belong to winter. Their vanilla bases need cold air to stay in shape.
