Four faces of iris in women's fragrance
Men's fragrances often pair iris with leather or cocoa for a dry suede effect. Women's perfumes cover more ground. There is green iris, led by No. 19 and its galbanum. It is a tailored, almost stern iris. There is vanilla iris, which is Guerlain's specialty. Shalimar, Vol de Nuit and Mon Guerlain use it to powder vanilla and make it less sweet. There is rosy iris, which Trésor pushes all the way to a lipstick effect with rose and lilac. And there is gourmand iris, a newer idea. The Only One sets it on coffee and vanilla, like a cappuccino dusted with cocoa. What ties them together is texture. Iris does not smell like a flower in the usual sense. It adds a soft, slightly cool grain that makes a perfume feel hushed. Often it is the reason people call a scent elegant.
How to wear iris well
Iris has a reputation for being quiet, and that is partly true. Orris butter, made from the rhizome, projects little but lingers close to the skin for hours. So don't judge an iris perfume in the first ten minutes. Chance Eau Tendre and Athalia seem shy at first, then stay on the wrist until evening. For the office, those two and No. 19 are the easiest. The Guerlains and Trésor need more thought. Their retro character suits evenings and winter better. Try two sprays on the neck and one on the hair, where powder diffuses well. Don't rub your wrists together. It crushes the top notes and rushes the base, which flattens the powdery effect. One last tip: iris loves natural fabrics like wool and silk, where it keeps its coolness.
