In women's perfume, sandalwood is the skin under the flowers
In feminine perfume, sandalwood is rarely the subject. It is the skin. Set under rose, jasmine or tuberose, it rounds out the flowers and gives them a warm, milky base that lasts for hours. That is its job in N°5, Paris and Hypnotic Poison. It usually comes with vanilla, tonka or musk, which all push its creamy side. Men's fragrances pair sandalwood with cedar, vetiver or leather and keep it drier. Santal 33 sits in between. It is unisex, it pairs sandalwood with leather and papyrus, and it wears very well on women. If you love sandalwood for its own sake, look for perfumes that lift it into the heart, like Obsession.
Oriental or floral sandalwood: choosing well
Two families split this list. The orientals set sandalwood on amber, vanilla or incense. Coco, Obsession, Hypnotic Poison and Vol de Nuit belong here. They are warm, made for fall and winter, and several score 4 or 5 for intensity. One or two sprays are enough, ideally on skin rather than clothes. Florals like N°5, Paris and Dolce Vita keep sandalwood in the base, under powdery flowers or peach. They are easier by day and in spring. Good Girl bridges the two, with sandalwood backing cacao and tonka. Our tip: judge a sandalwood perfume an hour after you put it on. Top notes often mask the wood, which only shows once the perfume settles.
