Our take
What does L'Ambre des Merveilles smell like?
Hermès spun off Eau des Merveilles in 2012 with L’Ambre des Merveilles, composed by Jean-Claude Ellena. The 2004 original was all salt and ambergris. This version turns its back on the sea and goes soft. A trace of that salty amber facet shows up first, a nod to the parent scent. Labdanum soon takes over with its resinous warmth and a slight leathery edge. The patchouli stays gentle, with no earth or camphor. The base settles on vanilla and Peru balsam, which give it the roundness of pale caramel. As usual, Ellena works with few materials. The amber stays legible and never turns gloopy. Compared with Serge Lutens' Ambre Sultan, which is drier and more herbal, L’Ambre des Merveilles feels sweet and almost cuddly. It's an amber for people who find the classic orientals too heavy.
When to wear it
Keep it for autumn and winter, sprayed on a wool sweater or a scarf. It stays fairly close to the skin, so a spray on the collar won't bother anyone.
It belongs to the Oriental / Amber family. L'Ambre des Merveilles is one of 47 creations by Hermès in our encyclopedia.