Our take
What does Calèche smell like?
Calèche was Hermès's first feminine fragrance, released in 1961. Guy Robert composed it a year after Madame Rochas, another aldehydic floral chypre of his. The name refers to the horse-drawn carriage on the house logo, a reminder of its saddle-making roots. Aldehydes give an instant soapy sparkle, like starched linen. Bergamot, lemon, neroli and mandarin come along. The heart is a dense bouquet of gardenia, ylang-ylang and jasmine. Rose and lily of the valley join in, with iris drying it all out. The base is textbook chypre. Oakmoss, vetiver and cedar lay down a dry floor that sandalwood and musk warm up. Current versions have been reformulated and smell brighter than old bottles. Next to Saint Laurent's Rive Gauche, another great aldehydic, Calèche is greener and mossier. This is a scent for a suit more than for a party.
When to wear it
Best at the office or a smart lunch, in spring or autumn. One spray on the neck and one on the wrist is enough.
It belongs to the Floral, Chypre family. Calèche is one of 47 creations by Hermès in our encyclopedia.
