Our take
What does Bel Ami smell like?
The name comes from Maupassant's novel. Jean-Louis Sieuzac composed Bel Ami in 1986 for Hermès, a house that began with harnesses and saddlery. So leather is the real subject. The opening is fresh, though. Mandarin, bergamot and lemon mix with cardamom and sage. Then it darkens fast. Carnation brings a clove-like edge, patchouli settles in and orris gives a suede texture. Basil and jasmine stay in the background. The base is a full leather chypre. Leather and styrax dominate while oakmoss and vetiver add bitterness. A touch of vanilla and coconut softens the whole. Next to Chanel's Antaeus, another leather chypre of that decade, Bel Ami feels drier and more refined. It asks for some patience at first. The first twenty minutes can feel harsh and old-fashioned. Wait for the dry-down, when the leather turns soft and warm like a worn saddle.
When to wear it
An autumn and winter scent for evenings or big days. One or two sprays on the shirt, because it projects strongly in the first hour.
It belongs to the Leather family. Bel Ami is one of 47 creations by Hermès in our encyclopedia.