Our take
What does Ambre Sultan smell like?
Ambre Sultan first appeared in 1993 at Serge Lutens’ Palais Royal boutique, then joined the more widely sold line in 2000. Christopher Sheldrake wrote the formula under Lutens’ direction. The opening throws anyone expecting a soft vanilla amber. Bay leaf, oregano and coriander give a dried-herb note that feels almost culinary, like a bouquet garni left in the sun. The heart stays aromatic with myrtle and angelica, while benzoin starts warming things up. The base is a dark, dense amber. Labdanum brings its leathery, animalic side and styrax a smoky resin, with patchouli for depth. Vanilla arrives only afterwards to round things off, and sandalwood smooths the last corners. This amber smells of raw materials rather than candy, and plenty of niche ambers since have followed its lead.
When to wear it
Cold weather, evenings or winter weekends; one or two sprays because it is very strong. For resin lovers unafraid of herbal notes.
It belongs to the Oriental / Amber family. Ambre Sultan is one of 33 creations by Serge Lutens in our encyclopedia.
