The spirit of a decade
Minimalism took over fashion and design, and perfumery followed. L'Eau d'Issey, in 1992, imagined water running over a flower, and Giorgio Armani's Acqua di Giò, in 1996, set the template of salty, sunlit skin. Calvin Klein launched CK One in 1994, a perfume shared by men and women that popularised the idea of unisex. Against the tide, Mugler's Angel, composed by Olivier Cresp in 1992, invented the gourmand family with its overdose of sugar and patchouli. Jean Paul Gaultier launched Le Mâle in 1995, a vanilla fougère that became a classic. The end of the decade saw glamour return with Dior's J'adore in 1999. Meanwhile, niche perfumery emerged: Serge Lutens opened Les Salons du Palais-Royal in 1992, and houses such as Diptyque and Creed gained visibility.
