The story of Berdoues
Berdoues was founded in 1902 in the Toulouse area by the family that gave it its name. The know-how has since passed through four generations. In the 1930s the house launched its violet perfume, the flower of Toulouse. Sources disagree on the exact year. For decades Berdoues mostly sold colognes and affordable toiletries. The move into more ambitious perfumery came with the Grands Crus collection. The concept borrows from French fine wine: labels, boxes and the idea of terroir. Assam of India, Hoja de Cuba and Oud Al Sahraa all belong to it. The 1902 line stays true to the house's colognes. Think lavender, vetiver or lemon.
An olfactory signature
Berdoues tells travel stories with one main material per scent. Assam of India is about black tea, tannic and lightly smoky. Hoja de Cuba sits with the tobacco leaf, dry and honeyed. Oud Al Sahraa is one of a small oud trio. It is darker and more resinous. Azur Riviera heads the other way with citrus freshness. The house does not go abstract. The name tells you what you will smell, and at this price that is a strength.
Which Berdoues perfume to choose?
Assam of India is the best way in. The tea is clear and it works all year. If you like the feel of a cigar lounge, Hoja de Cuba is warmer and suits autumn. Oud Al Sahraa is the strongest of the four. One spray is enough, ideally at night. Keep Azur Riviera for summer and hot days. These Grands Crus cost far less than most niche labels. They are a good way to test a material before spending more elsewhere.