What does Wisteria smell like?
Walk under a blooming wisteria on a spring evening: the smell is sweet, honeyed and a little powdery, with a hint of sweet pea. It recalls lilac, only softer and less green. A light fruity facet sometimes comes through. In perfume the wisteria accord adds an airy floral sweetness that blends well with musks. It never takes over.
Origin and production
Wisteria is native to East Asia and North America. The Chinese and Japanese species are the most planted in Europe. Like lilac or lily of the valley, it is a mute flower: nothing usable can be extracted. Perfumers rebuild it with floral molecules, honeyed notes and a green touch.
How perfumers use it
Wisteria sits in the heart, between white flowers and powdery notes. It works with lilac, heliotrope, peony and jasmine. Love, Chloé (2010) surrounds it with lilac, heliotrope and rice powder for a vintage make-up feel. Lanvin Éclat d'Arpège (2002) pairs it with lilac and green tea. Marc Jacobs Daisy Dream (2014) brightens it with blackberry and lychee for a fruitier take.
How to wear it
Wisteria is a spring note, from April to June. These scents stay light: Éclat d'Arpège and Daisy Dream can take four sprays without filling a room.