What does Yuzu smell like?
Yuzu smells like lemon and grapefruit with a hint of mandarin. It is less sharp than lemon and keeps a floral, almost herbal facet. There is a slight peel bitterness too. In perfume it gives a bright, juicy opening. Like all citrus it evaporates quickly. What remains is a green trace that woods or musks carry further.
Origin and production
Yuzu (Citrus junos) is thought to come from central China and has been grown in Japan for centuries. It handles cold better than most citrus. In Japan people float yuzu in the bath on the winter solstice, a custom called yuzu-yu. The essential oil is cold-pressed from the peel. The fruit gives little oil, so it is expensive. Perfumers often round it out with an accord.
How perfumers use it
Yuzu is a less expected citrus than bergamot. Issey Miyake L’Eau d’Issey pour Homme, by Jacques Cavallier in 1994, puts it at the top of a marine woody. Azzaro Eau Belle and Cartier Eau de Cartier make it a fresh aromatic. Versace Bright Crystal pairs it with pomegranate and magnolia. Paco Rabanne Invictus Aqua pushes it toward sporty freshness.
How to wear it
Yuzu is a spring and summer daytime note. It works at the office or the gym. Respray at midday, since the freshness rarely lasts much beyond an hour.