Fragrance note

Peony, rosy freshness and crumpled petals

Peony is a flower with a fresh, rosy, slightly fruity scent that sits between rose and citrus. Its smell cannot be extracted, so perfumery rebuilds it as an accord of molecules. It gives compositions a sparkling, youthful, luminous floral quality.

19perfumes

3as top note

16as heart note

0as base note

What does Peony smell like?

Peony smells like freshly cut rose, only lighter and tangier: a lemony facet, a hint of raspberry or lychee, an almost watery freshness and a whisper of pepper. It suggests crumpled petals rather than a heady bouquet. In the heart it brings a cheerful rosy glow, then gently fades into musks and pale woods. It is one of the easiest florals to wear for people who find rose too serious.

Origin and production

Native to China, where it has been grown and celebrated for centuries, the peony spread to Europe as an ornamental flower. Its blooms yield no usable essence. Perfumers therefore rebuild the note from rosy molecules such as phenylethyl alcohol and geraniol, with fruity notes and green, lemony facets. Peony rose to prominence from the 1990s in fresh, fruity florals and has remained a mainstay of feminine launches since.

How perfumers use it

Peony sits in the heart. It pairs gracefully with rose, jasmine, lychee, raspberry, lily of the valley and musks. Yves Saint Laurent's Mon Paris sets it beside strawberry and patchouli, Givenchy's Very Irrésistible famously pairs it with rose and star anise, and Jo Malone's Peony & Blush Suede opens it with red apple before settling on a soft suede base.

How to wear it

Ideal in spring and summer, during the day. It suits lovers of fresh, joyful, romantic florals.

Frequently asked questions

What does peony smell like in a perfume?

Like a fresh, light rose with lemony and fruity nuances, sometimes close to raspberry or lychee. It is less heady than rose and more sparkling. It is often described as youthful and luminous, with the freshness of petals that have only just been picked.

Is peony a natural note?

No. Like lily of the valley or freesia, peony is one of the so-called mute flowers whose scent cannot be extracted in usable form. The note is rebuilt by the perfumer from rosy, fruity and green molecules, which allows for many different interpretations from one fragrance to the next.

Which famous perfumes contain peony?

In our database peony sits in the heart of Yves Saint Laurent's Mon Paris, Issey Miyake's L'Eau d'Issey, Estée Lauder's Pleasures, Givenchy's Very Irrésistible and Dior's Miss Dior Blooming Bouquet. It also opens Jo Malone's Peony & Blush Suede and Chloé Eau de Parfum.