Our take
What does Sublime smell like?
Jean Kerléo, Jean Patou's in-house perfumer, composed Sublime in 1992 as a floral chypre. The opening pairs bergamot and mandarin with a hint of coriander, which adds texture from the first minute. The heart feels like an armful of flowers warmed by the sun. Rose and jasmine lead. Ylang-ylang brings creaminess and neroli keeps a little light in the mix. The base is warmer than you'd expect from a chypre. Sandalwood, vetiver, vanilla and amber form a golden and slightly animalic finish. It lasts for ages on clothing. Next to Joy, the house's great floral from 1930, Sublime feels more ambery and sunnier. It also leans less on the rose and jasmine pairing. It has since been discontinued, and bottles now mostly change hands on the secondhand market. Older versions are said to be richer than the last batches.
When to wear it
An autumn evening scent, best sprayed on a coat or scarf. One or two sprays will do, since the amber base takes up a lot of room.
It belongs to the Floral, Chypre family. Sublime is one of 3 creations by Patou in our encyclopedia.