What does Amyris smell like?
Amyris oil smells of dry, soft wood with a balsamic side that suggests honey or balm. There is a slightly smoky, peppery hint too. It is quieter than sandalwood, less creamy and less milky. Its real strength is staying power: it evaporates slowly and anchors more volatile notes. On its own it is rather flat. In a blend it adds thickness to woods and flowers.
Origin and production
Amyris (Amyris balsamifera) grows in the Caribbean, notably Haiti, and along the coasts of Central America. It belongs to the Rutaceae family, the citrus family, not to the sandalwood family. Its wood was once burned like a torch, hence the English nickname torchwood. The essential oil is steam-distilled from the wood and branches. It long served as a cheap substitute for Indian sandalwood.
How perfumers use it
Amyris sits in the heart or base and rarely takes the lead. Givenchy turned it into a recurring ingredient of its Play line: it appears in the heart of Play Intense (2008) with oleander, then in Play for Her and Play for Her Intense (2010) with magnolia and tiare. Acqua di Parma pairs it with oud and coriander in Colonia Oud (2012). Balmain Extatic (2014) uses it in the base with sandalwood and leather.
How to wear it
Amyris perfumes suit autumn and winter. Amyris itself never gets in the way: the notes around it decide the season. It lasts well on wool.