Our take
What does Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune smell like?
Pamplelune joined Guerlain's Aqua Allegoria collection in 1999. It was one of Mathilde Laurent's first compositions, back when she was a young perfumer at the house. The name plays on pamplemousse, French for grapefruit, and the opening delivers. You smell the fruit sliced in half, pulp and all, with a sulfurous edge that recalls black currant buds or even sweat. Bergamot adds some light. That animal side catches people off guard the first time. The heart stays green and citrusy. Petitgrain and neroli extend the citrus while cassia adds a powdery touch. The base is pure Guerlain. Dry patchouli and a light vanilla hold the fruit on skin far longer than a classic fresh cologne. Terre d'Hermès is the other great grapefruit, released in 2006. Pamplelune is juicier and sweeter in the drydown. It lacks the Hermès mineral edge.
When to wear it
Ideal in hot weather, at the office or on weekends. Spray it freely on skin and clothes, since it fades within three or four hours.
It belongs to the Citrus, Aromatic family. Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune is one of 89 creations by Guerlain in our encyclopedia.