Our take
What does Dioressence smell like?
Dior commissioned Dioressence from Guy Robert in 1969 to go with a fur collection. The ads called it "le parfum barbare". According to a story told by Luca Turin, Robert started from a lump of ambergris and a soap scented like Miss Dior. Aldehydes and bergamot open with a soapy sparkle. The heart is dense with jasmine, rose, violet and ylang. A touch of cinnamon lifts it. The base is what made its name. Patchouli, oakmoss and ambergris give an animal warmth that is close to skin, rounded off by benzoin and orris. Max Gavarry reworked it in 1979 and François Demachy revisited it in 2010. Today's version is much lighter, a soapy rose sitting on moss. Compared with Miss Dior from 1947, its direct ancestor, Dioressence is warmer and more sensual. Both share the mossy green streak that marks the house's chypres.
When to wear it
A winter evening scent for a coat collar or the base of the neck. One or two dabs are enough with vintage, double that for the current version.
It belongs to the Chypre family. Dioressence is one of 56 creations by Dior in our encyclopedia.
