Our take
What does Lumière smell like?
Rochas launched Lumière in 1984. Nicolas Mamounas, who also composed Mystère and Byzance for the house, created this floral chypre. The name says it all, since the goal was to capture light. Aldehydes open with their soapy sparkle. Bergamot, green notes and orange blossom join them while violet adds a powdery veil. The heart is a big bouquet. Honeysuckle, tuberose and hyacinth mingle with jasmine, rose and iris. The whole thing has the sunny, slightly fruity feel of florals from that decade. The base pulls it back toward chypre. Oakmoss, sandalwood and vetiver give it a dry footing that musk and cedar soften. Byzance, released three years later, borrows some of its ideas in a gentler form. Lumière is now discontinued and survives only in vintage bottles. Few florals from the 1980s feel this sunny.
When to wear it
A spring floral for daytime that suits a light dress. Vintage bottles are scarce, so one or two sprays will do.
It belongs to the Floral, Chypre family. Lumière is one of 21 creations by Rochas in our encyclopedia.