Our take
What does Calandre smell like?
In 1969 Paco Rabanne was dressing his models in metal and launched his first perfume. Michel Hy composed Calandre. The name means a car's radiator grille in French, and Rabanne wanted a metallic smell. The opening keeps that idea. Cold aldehydes and tart bergamot cut like a blade. Green notes push the effect further. The heart then opens on a green rose and a slightly rough geranium. Lily of the valley, orris and jasmine gradually smooth the bouquet. After about fifteen minutes the base comes through with oakmoss, vetiver, sandalwood and musk. A little amber warms it all. Calandre is often linked to Yves Saint Laurent's Rive Gauche, released two years later. Both share that steely freshness, with Calandre the greener of the two. It still feels surprisingly current today.
When to wear it
For the office or a mild spring day, with a crisp white shirt. Two sprays at most, as the aldehydes rise fast.
It belongs to the Floral, Powdery family. Calandre is one of 35 creations by Paco Rabanne in our encyclopedia.
