Our take
What does Jean-Louis Scherrer smell like?
Couturier Jean-Louis Scherrer launched his first fragrance in 1979, under his own name. The perfumer was never clearly documented, and note lists vary from one source to the next. The structure is not in doubt though: this is a floral chypre from the genre's golden age. The opening is green and slightly bitter. Aldehydes, galbanum and hyacinth smell like a freshly snapped stem, with powdery violet behind them. Carnation, tuberose and orris fill the heart, backed by jasmine and rose. Carnation adds a clove-like bite that keeps the bouquet from turning polite. The base is pure late seventies: oakmoss, vetiver and sandalwood, warmed by civet. That animalic streak is something current releases rarely risk. It clings to wool and lingers on a scarf for days. It shares the bitter green start of Chanel's Cristalle. Scherrer then turns much warmer and darker.
When to wear it
An evening and winter scent that suits a heavy coat. One spray is plenty, since the moss and civet last all night.
It belongs to the Floral, Chypre family. Jean-Louis Scherrer is one of 2 creations by Jean-Louis Scherrer in our encyclopedia.