Our take
What does Guilty smell like?
Launched in 2010, Gucci Guilty for women was composed by Aurélien Guichard as a floral oriental that is light yet a little provocative. The opening sparkles: pink pepper, mandarin and bergamot give a spicy, tangy glint. The heart is less predictable, with velvety peach, powdery lilac and a slightly green, rosy geranium. Together they create a powdery, somewhat cosmetic texture that recalls lipstick. Patchouli, amber and musk then bring a gently earthy warmth to the base. The whole stays modern and fairly discreet, far from the heft of the big orientals but with a real powdery personality.
When to wear it
For evenings, dates and casual outings, especially in the shoulder seasons. It suits women who like powdery scents with a touch of cheek.
The story of Guilty
Gucci Guilty came out in 2010 under creative director Frida Giannini. The house wanted something young and provocative, and the name says so. Aurélien Guichard composed a floral oriental around lilac and peach on a patchouli base. The campaign went to Frank Miller, the creator of Sin City, who filmed Evan Rachel Wood and Chris Evans in a film noir mood. Success came quickly and the line grew fast. Guilty Pour Homme arrived in 2011, followed by a run of flankers such as Intense and Absolute. That sprawl has sometimes muddied the original. This page covers the 2010 women's Guilty in eau de toilette. It is sold as a feminine, and its masculine counterpart is a very different, more aromatic scent. When you shop for it, check the label carefully. Bottles and names across the line look very alike, and it is easy to leave with a different Guilty from the one you wanted.
Our detailed review
The opening fizzes. Pink pepper gives a spicy prickle, while mandarin and bergamot add fruity tartness. It is the liveliest moment. The heart changes mood. Peach brings velvety roundness and lilac a slightly retro floral powder. Geranium slips in a green rosy touch. Together they create the cosmetic texture that recalls lipstick or a pressed-powder compact. In the base patchouli settles in with amber and musk, cleaner than earthy. Gucci Guilty smells like the handbag of a woman in a hurry: compact, peach sweets and a patchouli lining. We like the lilac, rare in big launches. It gives the scent a powdery identity of its own. The flaw is its lightness. It fades fast, and the patchouli base feels a bit generic after three hours. It suits women who like modern powdery scents with a flirtatious streak. Anyone who wants power should look elsewhere.
Guilty vs its rivals
Chanel's Coco Mademoiselle shares the patchouli and the idea of a modern floral on a woody foundation. Rose and lychee make it fresher, and its patchouli is more present. It is more elegant and lasts longer. Gucci Flora, from the same house, shares mandarin and patchouli as well as amber and musk. Peony, rose and osmanthus make it more floral and brighter, without the lilac powder. Guilty Pour Homme keeps only the name and the patchouli. Built on lavender and lemon with orange blossom and cedar, it is an aromatic masculine and the opposite of its sibling. For a powdery floral off the beaten track, Guilty is the most original. Coco Mademoiselle suits those who want more staying power. Flora is for lovers of bright flowers.
Longevity, projection and use
Longevity is average. Expect four to six hours on skin, with decent projection for an hour before it settles into a close bubble. The patchouli holds a bit better on clothing. Three sprays is a good starting point, four for an evening. Wear it in spring and autumn, day or night. In summer the peach and lilac get a touch sugary. In winter it lacks density. It works very well at the office, where its restraint becomes an asset.
It belongs to the Floral, Oriental / Amber family. Guilty is one of 16 creations by Gucci in our encyclopedia.
