Our take
What does L'Orpheline smell like?
L'Orpheline arrived in 2014 in Serge Lutens' black line, at a higher concentration. Christopher Sheldrake, the house's longtime collaborator, composed it. Lutens revealed few notes and offered a text about childhood instead. The opening is cold and sparkling. Aldehydes make the air feel almost frozen and incense shows up at once with a mineral edge. Then it warms. Cedar, a soft patchouli and coumarin form a woody heart with a hint of fougère. Flowers are nearly absent. The base is the best part. Ambergris, Cashmeran and musk create soft skin, like a wool sweater worn a day too long. The comparison that comes to mind is Frédéric Malle's Géranium pour Monsieur, for that clean powdery drydown. L'Orpheline is one of the gentlest Lutens scents, far from the heavy orientals that built the brand's reputation.
When to wear it
For a winter Sunday or a quiet evening. One or two sprays on skin, as it stays close to the body.
It belongs to the Woody family. L'Orpheline is one of 31 creations by Serge Lutens in our encyclopedia.