What a feminine chypre is
The name comes from Coty's Chypre, launched in 1917, which shaped the whole family. The structure is easy to describe. A bright bergamot top rests on a dark base of oakmoss and labdanum, often reinforced with patchouli. That contrast between light and shadow gives chypres their dry, grown-up feel. Feminine chypres add flowers and sometimes fruit. Mitsouko and Rochas Femme bring peach or plum, while Miss Dior brings jasmine and gardenia. Masculine chypres use the same base for leather and aromatic herbs. Oakmoss is now subject to restrictions over allergy concerns, so perfume houses have reformulated the old chypres. Current versions are still beautiful but lighter. That is how the modern chypre was born, with patchouli standing in for moss. Sì, Signorina and Jimmy Choo are three examples.
Classic or modern chypre: which to pick
If you have never worn a chypre, do not start with Aromatics Elixir. It is magnificent, but its 5 out of 5 intensity and bitter herbs put people off fast. Start instead with a modern chypre like Sì or Signorina. They keep the longevity and the poise with a more familiar touch of sweetness. If you like them, move on to Miss Dior or No. 19, which are greener and drier. Keep Mitsouko for later, once you have learned to enjoy the bitterness of moss. Chypres are shoulder-season scents. Spring and autumn suit them better than a heatwave, which exaggerates their earthy side. At the office, No. 19 and Signorina work very well. In the evening, Rochas Femme and Aromatics Elixir open up fully. On dry skin, moisturize first, or the oakmoss can smell dusty.
