The story of Elie Saab
Elie Saab was 18 and self-taught when he opened his first workshop in Beirut in 1982. His glowing, embroidered evening wear carried him to the Paris runways and then to film festival red carpets. Perfume came later. In 2009 the house signed a ten-year licence with Beauté Prestige International, part of Shiseido. Two years on, Le Parfum arrived, composed by Francis Kurkdjian. It sold well from the start and won a French FiFi Award in 2012. A long run of variations followed. Rose Couture and In White came first, then Essentiel and Royal. In 2016 Girl of Now went after a younger audience with a gourmand accord. Since 1 January 2021 the licence has been held by Brands Beyond Beauty. That year the house gave part of Le Parfum's sales to rebuilding Beirut after the port explosion.
An olfactory signature
The Elie Saab signature comes down to one material. Orange blossom, made bright and slightly honeyed. Le Parfum sets it on jasmine sambac with a patchouli and cedar base. It reads like pale silk rather than a bridal bouquet. The variations mostly adjust the dosage. Essentiel dries out the base and turns up the patchouli. Royal warms things up with more amber. Girl of Now takes a sweeter route, with almond and pistachio coating the same white flower. That common thread is how you spot the house, even when the sugar takes over.
Which Elie Saab perfume to choose?
Start with Le Parfum. It is the reference, and the flankers make more sense once you know it. If it feels too sweet, Le Parfum Essentiel is drier and woodier. Rose Couture and In White are lighter and suit summer. Le Parfum Royal is the winter evening option. Among the Girl of Now scents, the original is the most gourmand. Girl of Now Shine adds a fizzier fruit note, while Girl of Now Forever leans more floral. Two sprays are enough. These last well and project strongly on clothes.