What does Sweet Pea smell like?
Sweet pea smells of light honey, orange blossom and a touch of hyacinth. There is a fruity shade somewhere between peach and grape, plus a green stem freshness. It is a cheerful smell, airier than rose and less heady than jasmine. The accord keeps that mix and leans on transparency. On skin it stays quiet and melts fairly quickly into the other flowers.
Origin and production
Sweet pea (Lathyrus odoratus) is native to Sicily and southern Italy. A Sicilian monk is said to have sent seeds to other parts of Europe in the late 17th century. English gardeners made it a passion in the Victorian era, breeding variety after variety. The flower can't be distilled or extracted. Perfumers rebuild its scent from synthetic floral and fruity molecules.
How perfumers use it
Sweet pea brightens white bouquets and adds an innocent cheer. Jean-Claude Ellena placed it in the heart of Jour d'Hermès (2013), next to gardenia. Nina Ricci Premier Jour (2001) opens on it with peony and mandarin. Issey Miyake pairs it with peony in Pleats Please (2012), over cedar and vanilla. My Burberry (2014) sets it at the top with bergamot and freesia, before a rose heart.
How to wear it
Sweet pea is a spring daytime note, good with pale clothes. Jour d'Hermès fits anywhere, office included. Spray three times, as the accord stays light.