Our take
What does Obsession smell like?
Released in 1985, Obsession embodies a decade that loved fragrances big enough to fill a room, and Calvin Klein framed it as a sensual manifesto through famously provocative campaigns. The opening pairs mandarin and bergamot, quickly wrapped in vanilla like candied peel. In the heart, jasmine and orange blossom mingle with creamy sandalwood that rounds every edge. Then amber takes over, thickened by animalic musk and a curl of incense smoke that gives the base an almost liturgical feel. The result is dense, resinous and faintly powdery, with that sweater-deep warmth you still smell the next morning. An uncompromising ambery oriental.
When to wear it
One spray is enough for a winter night out. It suits those who embrace period fragrances and like to leave a trail.
The story of Obsession
Obsession came out in 1985, the same year as Poison and Beautiful. Calvin Klein was at its peak with jeans and underwear, and the brand wanted a fragrance as provocative as its ads. Jean Guichard composed a dense ambery oriental in the line of Opium and Shalimar, only rougher. The campaigns played on frank sensuality with suggestive black and white images, and later with Kate Moss in the early 1990s. It became the brand's first major fragrance hit, and Obsession for Men followed in 1986. It belongs to the decade of power-shoulder perfumes that could fill a lift on their own. Calvin Klein's next big launches went the opposite way, with Eternity in 1988 and CK One in 1994. Obsession is marketed to women. Its ambery incense base works very well on men too, and you will often catch it on a man's coat.
Our detailed review
The opening is brief. Mandarin and bergamot shine for a few minutes, already wrapped in vanilla like candied peel. The heart is quieter than you might expect, as jasmine and orange blossom are quickly absorbed by creamy sandalwood. Amber runs the show. Around hour two it thickens with musk and incense. The base then smells of warm resin, slightly powdery and almost churchy. Picture a wool jumper the morning after a party. If you want to know what Obsession smells like, here it is: a smoky ambery vanilla, drier than sweet. We like its coherence and its presence. There is not one note too many. The criticism is familiar. It is as old as its shoulder pads. Its density feels heavy next to current releases and can seem old-fashioned to anyone who missed it first time round. It suits lovers of period orientals and fans of amber. Noses that prefer transparency will run.
Obsession vs its rivals
Guerlain's Shalimar is the obvious model. It shares bergamot, mandarin, jasmine and vanilla. Opoponax and tonka make it smokier and more powdery, with a leathery side Obsession lacks. It is also more refined. Serge Lutens' Ambre Sultan shares the amber, vanilla and sandalwood. Dry herbs and labdanum make it more resinous and less floral, so it is amber in its purest form. Yves Saint Laurent's Opium shares mandarin, jasmine, sandalwood and amber. It then adds clove and plum to read spicier and more colourful. For an ambery incense vanilla at a gentle price, Obsession is unbeatable. Shalimar suits those who want more finesse. Ambre Sultan is for amber purists, and Opium for spice lovers.
Longevity, projection and use
Longevity is excellent. Expect ten hours or more on skin and days on wool. Projection is very wide for the first three hours. One spray at the base of the neck is enough for an evening. With two, it fills a room. Wear it in autumn and winter, ideally at night. In summer the amber turns stifling. At the office it is too much, except as a tiny touch under a jumper. It is gorgeous on a scarf, where it stays for days.
It belongs to the Oriental / Amber family. Obsession is one of 25 creations by Calvin Klein in our encyclopedia.
