Our take
What does Matière Noire smell like?
Matière Noire was part of Louis Vuitton's first perfume collection in 2016. In-house perfumer Jacques Cavallier Belletrud composed the whole line, and this is its darkest entry. It opens on tart, almost sulphurous blackcurrant with that sharp bud note that tingles the nose. The heart brings together Grasse jasmine and centifolia rose, both highlighted by the house. Narcissus adds a green, animalic touch and cyclamen a watery coolness. Databases do not fully agree on the pyramid, but oud is clearly the pivot. It is handled with restraint. You smell smoky, faintly leathery wood rather than the medicinal oud of many Middle Eastern blends. Patchouli and incense darken it while benzoin softens it. The effect is a bouquet of white flowers left in a wood-panelled room.
When to wear it
Autumn and winter, in the evening or for an occasion. One or two sprays, since it lasts a long time.
It belongs to the Floral, Woody family. Matière Noire is one of 15 creations by Louis Vuitton in our encyclopedia.
