The story of Cartier
In 1847 Louis-François Cartier took over his master's jewellery workshop in Paris. His three grandsons turned the house into a global name in the early twentieth century, working between Paris, London and New York. The panther became a recurring motif under Jeanne Toussaint, the house's jewellery director. Fragrance arrived in 1981 with Must de Cartier, an oriental. In 1998 Jean-Claude Ellena composed Déclaration, a cardamom-spiced wood that hints at his later work for Hermès. Mathilde Laurent, trained at Guerlain, became in-house perfumer in 2005. She created the Les Heures de Parfum collection and then La Panthère in 2014, named after the house's emblem. Cartier now belongs to the Richemont group. Few jewellers employ their own perfumer, and the catalogue is more coherent for it.
An olfactory signature
The Cartier signature lies in the tension between restraint and character. Déclaration is the dry side. Its almost eucalyptus-like cardamom meets bitter orange and smoky birch, then settles on cedar, vetiver and leather. La Panthère explores the other face. Its fleshy, slightly milky gardenia sits on dry moss and musks with a feline edge. Both avoid sheer mass and favour a clean outline you appreciate up close.
Which Cartier perfume to choose?
In our database Cartier is represented by two fragrances that could hardly be more different. Déclaration is for lovers of dry spicy woods. Wear it to the office or in spring and autumn, with three sprays on skin. La Panthère suits anyone who likes white flowers with some bite, in autumn and winter. If Déclaration appeals, smell Terre d'Hermès to find Jean-Claude Ellena's hand again. If La Panthère feels too musky, Ex Nihilo Fleur Narcotique offers a much fresher flower.