Our take
What does Must de Cartier smell like?
Must de Cartier was Cartier's first fragrance, launched in 1981. Jean-Jacques Diener built it on a simple idea: keep an animalic vanilla base in the spirit of Shalimar, then swap the bergamot opening for galbanum. That one move changes everything. The start is green and bitter, almost leafy, with bergamot and green mandarin in support. A few aldehydes brighten it. The heart rounds out on jasmine and rose. Carnation adds spice and narcissus a slightly animal note, dusted by iris. Then the vanilla arrives. It's ambery and mixed with sandalwood and tonka, with a discreet civet that gives the base some skin. Cartier now describes it as a green, powdery vanilla. The contrast between cut grass at the start and dessert at the end is still its smartest move. Recent versions seem sweeter than the original.
When to wear it
A cold-weather oriental for the evening. One spray on the nape is plenty, since the vanilla radiates for hours.
It belongs to the Oriental / Amber family. Must de Cartier is one of 15 creations by Cartier in our encyclopedia.
