What does Green Mandarin smell like?
Green mandarin smells like freshly grated zest, with a clear acidity, a crushed-leaf facet and a light bitterness. You still recognise the sweet, unmistakably mandarin character of the fruit, but in a sharper form, less candied than red mandarin. Like all citrus notes it evaporates fast; its role is to give a perfume's opening a bright, juicy glow before the heart takes over.
Origin and production
Mandarin, Citrus reticulata, is grown in Italy, notably Sicily and Calabria, as well as in Brazil and around the Mediterranean. Fruit destined for green mandarin oil is picked early in the season, before the peel turns yellow. The oil is cold-pressed from the peel. Its signature owes much to methyl N-methylanthranilate, the molecule that gives mandarin its recognisable, slightly sweet character.
How perfumers use it
Green mandarin sits in the top, sometimes in the heart to extend the sparkle. It pairs with other citrus, neroli, white flowers, aquatic notes and musks. Paco Rabanne uses it to open Olympéa, Creed places it at the top of Millésime Impérial, and Dolce & Gabbana Pour Femme uses it for a fruity freshness before its floral heart. It adds a livelier smile than orange.
How to wear it
Perfect for spring and summer, green mandarin suits anyone who loves a fresh, luminous opening, whether on floral or woody scents.
