What does Rhubarb smell like?
Think of a rhubarb stalk snapped in half in the garden. The smell is green, watery and openly sour, with a pinkish undertone. It has the crunch of an unripe apple. Cooked with sugar it moves closer to strawberry, and some perfumes play on that. Rhubarb always keeps a small bitterness that stops a formula from turning into candy. On skin it passes quickly and hands over to the flowers.
Origin and production
Garden rhubarb (Rheum rhabarbarum) is a perennial of Asian origin, grown in Europe for its stalks. Its leaves are toxic. No usable essence is extracted from the stalk. Perfumers rebuild the note from green and fruity synthetic molecules. Each supplier offers its own rhubarb base.
How perfumers use it
Rhubarb adds a sharp edge to rose or peony bouquets. It also works with lychee, grapefruit and mint. Parfums de Marly Delina (2017) opens with it alongside lychee, against rose and peony. Nina Ricci Bella (2018) and Marc Jacobs Perfect (2020) use it in the top as well. Guerlain Homme (2008) puts it in the heart of a mojito-inspired accord. In Jo Malone English Pear & Freesia it stays more discreet.
How to wear it
Rhubarb is a spring daytime note. Two sprays of Delina are plenty since its musky base lasts. In winter its tartness can feel cold.