Unisex perfumes: beyond gender

From CK One to Santal 33, unisex perfumes have revolutionized the industry. Today, Gen Z rejects gendered categories and niche houses dominate this market.

Unisex perfumes in Perfumdle

CK One (1994): the pioneer

In 1994, Calvin Klein launched CK One, the first unisex perfume to achieve worldwide success. Fresh, minimalist, citrusy, CK One embodies the spirit of the 90s: androgyny, diversity, freedom.

CK One's marketing targets both men and women with the message 'One for all'. The perfume becomes cult and paves the way for mainstream unisex fragrances.

The niche revolution: Le Labo, Byredo, Tom Ford Private Blend

From the 2000s, niche houses massively adopted the unisex format. For them, gender doesn't matter: only olfactory quality counts.

Le Labo (2006)

Le Labo launched Santal 33 in 2006, which became THE cult perfume of millennials. Worn by men and women (Alexa Chung, Justin Bieber), Santal 33 symbolizes genderless perfumery.

Rose 31, Another 13: the entire Le Labo range is unisex. The artisanal and minimalist approach seduces an urban and cosmopolitan clientele.

Byredo (2006)

Founded by Ben Gorham, Byredo offers conceptual and refined unisex perfumes. Gypsy Water (2008), Bal d'Afrique (2009), Mojave Ghost (2014): each fragrance tells a universal story.

Tom Ford Private Blend (2007)

Tom Ford created his Private Blend line in 2007, exclusively unisex. Tobacco Vanille, Oud Wood, Black Orchid (relaunched as unisex): luxurious and assertive perfumes, worn by both women and men.

Maison Francis Kurkdjian (2009)

Perfumer Francis Kurkdjian creates sophisticated unisex creations. Baccarat Rouge 540 (2015) has become one of the most worn perfumes in the world, regardless of gender.

Escentric Molecules (2006)

Geza Schoen pushes minimalism to the extreme with Molecule 01: a single molecule, Iso E Super, that blends with the skin. Radically unisex, Molecule 01 becomes cult among insiders.

Why gender boundaries blur

Gen Z attitudes

Gen Z (born after 1997) grows up in a world where gender norms are questioned. They reject binary 'for him / for her' marketing and seek perfumes that express their personality, not their gender.

The Santal 33 phenomenon

Santal 33 illustrates this evolution: worn by everyone (celebrities, influencers, ordinary people), it becomes the signature perfume of a cosmopolitan generation. Its success proves that gender no longer defines a perfume.

Classically 'masculine' notes worn by women

Women massively embrace woody, leathery, smoky notes (oud, vetiver, cedar). Perfumes like Tobacco Vanille (Tom Ford), Oud Wood, or Tuxedo (YSL) are worn as much by women as by men.

Historical pioneers

• Jicky (Guerlain, 1889)
• Colonia (Acqua di Parma, 1916)
• CK One (Calvin Klein, 1994)
• Silver Mountain Water (Creed, 1995)
• Millesime Imperial (Creed, 1995)
• Philosykos (Diptyque, 1996)
• Lime Basil & Mandarin (Jo Malone, 1999)

Modern niche unisex fragrances

• Black Orchid (Tom Ford, 2006)
• Molecule 01 (Escentric Molecules, 2006)
• Rose 31 (Le Labo, 2006)
• Bergamote 22 (Le Labo, 2006)
• Tobacco Vanille (Tom Ford, 2007)
• Oud Wood (Tom Ford, 2007)
• Noir de Noir (Tom Ford, 2007)
• Tuscan Leather (Tom Ford, 2007)
• Gypsy Water (Byredo, 2008)
• Molecule 02 (Escentric Molecules, 2008)
• Bal d'Afrique (Byredo, 2009)
• English Pear & Freesia (Jo Malone, 2010)
• Not a Perfume (Juliette Has a Gun, 2010)
• Another 13 (Le Labo, 2010)
• Santal 33 (Le Labo, 2011)
• Neroli Portofino (Tom Ford, 2011)
• Peony & Blush Suede (Jo Malone, 2013)
• Tobacco Oud (Tom Ford, 2013)
• Wood Sage & Sea Salt (Jo Malone, 2014)
• Mojave Ghost (Byredo, 2014)
• Baccarat Rouge 540 (Maison Francis Kurkdjian, 2015)
• Oud Satin Mood (Maison Francis Kurkdjian, 2015)
• Rose of No Man's Land (Byredo, 2015)
• Grand Soir (Maison Francis Kurkdjian, 2016)
• Petit Matin (Maison Francis Kurkdjian, 2016)
• Soleil Blanc (Tom Ford, 2016)
• Super Cedar (Byredo, 2016)
• Baccarat Rouge 540 Extrait (Maison Francis Kurkdjian, 2017)
• Fucking Fabulous (Tom Ford, 2017)
• Ombre Leather (Tom Ford, 2018)
• Lost Cherry (Tom Ford, 2018)
• Bitter Peach (Tom Ford, 2020)
• Rose Prick (Tom Ford, 2020)