What does Heliotrope smell like?
Heliotrope smells of bitter almond softened by vanilla, play-dough, cosmetic powder and candied cherry. Its texture is cottony, almost creamy, with a faint mauve floral facet. On skin it grows rounder and moves towards a powdery, cuddly vanilla that lasts well thanks to the molecules behind it. It easily conjures a grandmother's powder compact or an almond pastry fresh from the oven.
Origin and production
Heliotrope (Heliotropium arborescens), native to Peru, was grown in European gardens from the eighteenth century for its fragrance. Extraction is not commercially viable, so since the late nineteenth century perfumers have rebuilt it using heliotropin, also called piperonal, a synthetic molecule with a powdery almond scent, combined with coumarin, vanillin and floral notes. It was one of the first flowers made possible by chemistry.
How perfumers use it
In the heart or base, heliotrope softens a composition and gives it a powdery texture. It pairs with iris, violet, vanilla, tonka bean and musks. Parfums de Marly Pegasus pairs it with almond and vanilla in a gourmand signature, Tiziana Terenzi Kirke places it in the base of a musky fruity, and Mugler Alien Goddess uses it to round out its floral heart.
How to wear it
Heliotrope is best in autumn and winter and appeals to lovers of powdery softness and elegant gourmands.
